Ladies Blouse 0335 for the 1912 project

This blouse is a waist shirt from the the period when the S-shape was the best ever for a lady.

As part of the project I will conclude this series with the VPLL Checklist

1. Pattern Name: Ladies Blouse E0335
2. Sewer’s Skill Level I think this is advanced beginner’s pattern in difficulty. The most difficult part was to gett he right size for me when grading the pattern.
3.  Pattern Rating (1-5) I liked so much that I made two. 5
4. Skill Level An advanced skill level is needed with regard to pattern adjustments for fit.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? Generally speaking the instructions were easy to follow. I think less experienced sewers would benefit from more explanation of the  details given.
6. How was the fit/sizing? Pattern size was as described. As noted by other testers the center front pattern piece is a bit wide through the bust area. Since this is from the era of the S-shape, that would be just natural.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? I had to increase the front pattern piece so it would fit the back piece. If not, the front will not match up with the back. I made extensive alterations extending the length and width in several places but kept the curve through the waist area to accommodate a corseted figure. I also removed one of the pleats on the back. Didn’t do the gathering on the back for the white blouse bu tam doing so on the dark one.
8. Other notes: The artist drawing of the garment as a longer leaner line than the results using the pattern. But if you don’t do anything to the hight of the collar, that will give a very up-right position unless you want to show off those turkey necks J  Also, construction is time intensive; this is definitely not a quick sew garment. But DO TAKE YOUR TIME and make sure you gett he sizing correct.

Cutting.....

Showing off the fabric for the dark blouse.........

The collar with the cream coloured lace........

The pin tucks on the front are being stitched.........

This still needs the bias binding in the buttom..........

And I had to make a light one too :) This is the modern way of wearing it.....

This is the "old" way and correct way.......

Sideways........

To the back............

The bias binding........

The arm closure on the light one. The dark blouse will have spring press studs instead........

I really do hate taking pictures of myself in the bathroom. The light is horrible, I look the same.......

And everything is very yellow:(

Anyway this is the modern way of using this blouse. As you can see it's doable :)

Corsets..

When everything went wrong with my first corset, I didn't want to give up on the pattern. Since by daily budget is somewhat tight, I have to make do of what I can find. Like this child duvet cover. The right kind of fabric and the right amount.

Still some extra cm/inches left over....

Here are the pieces cut out ready to be turned into a corset.

The busk is where it should be.......

A reuse of the lace from corset #1.

The basic velvet ribbon is looking realy good on the lace and I had to choose a thread colour to match for the flossing. Still waiting for some more bonecasings and bones, lacing to finish it all up.

This is my corset #2. It is all done but awaiting the lace. I am waiting for a couple of metal endings for the lace. It will arrive in a weeks time I guess. So next week end both of these corsets will be done! Finally :)

I hate to say this...........

....... but practice DO make perfect!

Just look at these perfect holes. Click on the picture to get a bigger image. After about 65 wasted grommets, I finally managed to set 36 without even one of them splitting or losing it's shape!

Even the busk came together with no problems. I mean..... it lined up perfectly :)

All I have to do now is give the corset it's finishing touches and lacing :) Oh, I got my hand on some fabric ( a childs duvet cover in just the right kind of fabric) that will be suitable for a second corset. The same pattern as the first one I tried to make. This time everything is going to work out just as planned. I'm positive! :)

What I'm talking about........

This is my regency short stay. Looking good :)

Here's a close-up of one of the holes I've done by hand. Easy,and it looks good as well. Right for the era as well. 

Then it's the Edwardian corset:

This is the left-overs from the first corset and the reason why it is.

I tried different ways to get this right AND looking good.........

....... but no matter what I do.....they split AND they lose their round shape. I wish someone could tell me what I'm doing wrong. Let me assure you, this is no fun! And it costs time and money.

The grommets I've used are from the company I bought the corset kit and the grommets from Prym. The only ones I can get hold on here in Norway :(

Undergarments

Yesteryears they used undergarments like we don't do today. Like this chemise.

I'm wearing a bra and that's wrong. Over this chemise I will be using my corset from the edwardian era or the short stay from the regency era.

The seams are perfect and it fits me! :)

Next project..........

As part of my 1912 project I'm making this blouse.

Here's the pattern pieces laid out on the fabric. Ready to be cut. A scary moment :)

I'm working on the tucks here. Actually, I still am. Can't seem to make those few, very thin tucks and the wider ones exactly where they're intended to be! Grrrr..

At least I got the collar right with the lace part and all. I do have all the other pieces all done, just not the front!

I am NOT going to show any pictures of my failure with my post edwardian corset. Everything was going just fine until I started with the eyelets for the lace. I made 26 but only 5 of those came out right. All the other split of were mocked up in other ways.  Boy, was I angry when I hit that last one. I WANTED it to split.....and of course ..... it did....

Sooo....I'm now working on my regency stay insted and a secon edwardian corset. I had to order some more boning for that second corset. Hopefully it's going to turn out just fine, as intended. :)

I never saw this happening when I started out. I thought I knew what I was doing. Sure doesn't feel like that at the moment. Butit will pass and everything will turn out great in the end :)

Hat and corset (almost) done..

Picture taken with my iPhone in the bathroom. Not a very good light in there...

In the living room without the blitz. A bit better shot.......

Any way... it looks less like a wedding cake now than what it used to. Could benefit from a couple of feathers as well I think. But the budget is very thight so that has to wait a bit.

All I need to do with the corset is to make the holes for the laces. This is the front view.......

...... and this is on the wrong side. Not matter how many times I've practiced I still couldn't get that darn thing to stay still while I used the tools. Since I don't want to ruin the corset, I've been in the thinking box for a few days: Continue or go the old fashion way with embroided holes?

One? Both?

I ordered a kit for my post edwardian 1911 corset. You might remember that I had a hard time deciding which one to make. But look what I did! By twisting and turning the pattern pices there were enough fabric for both corsets, including seam allowances! I only have the rest of the kit for the 1911 corset, but I don't have to order more fabric for the second one, only all the hardware :)

First Hat done....

The band of flowers is a decoration ment for the table during some sort of celebration. The tulle has been ruched with sewing thread.

The hat is a small straw (made of real straw) that I found in a thrift store and payed $3 for. The pull is covered with shiny velvet and sewn not glued in place.

This is how this smaller hat turned out when all done. It really looks good on me as well :) Unfortunately I don't have a good spot for taking portait pictures and no one to help me at this time.

I have a couple of hat boxes but they were just too small. I need to make a few more that are big enough for my two edwardian inspired hats.

Redesign for an old design

I have very little floor space, so after a few rounds of printing and cutting out pattern, this is how it might end up: a mess.

Since I still haven't made up my mind just yet about which corset to make, I started on project #2:

A 1910 Brassiere

I picked a white blouse with a somewhat see-through fabric. It didn't suit me very well and it was way to short for my bodice. But still I liked it and kept it. For years.

That was lucky because it was very suitable for this project.

So I cut it apart. It took a while due to the thin fabric. The small sleeves will go into another project, perhaps for a chemise?

I would not have done this if I wan't sure of the number of pattern pieces. It was JUST enough room :)

I kept a piece of the old row of buttonwholes and buttons. I didn't notice that the blouse could have been given a wash first until I started to iron it.

So I added some old and new lace to the brassiere. This is the front view........

.......and the back view. It's hanging to dry now :)

Even though I didn't follow the pattern to the tiniest bits, I still think it looks right on spot agevise.

I like it and it fits.