A little tip.....

.....when you're living by a shoe string........

 

I didn't know what to do at first when I couldn't find the right buttons in my collection. Then it dawned upon me: use the same fabric as before to cover the buttons!

And so I did. It worked really well.

Skirt E0200 is almost done.....

.....I say almost because I'm looking for some suitable buttons. 14 to be excact :)

The skirt is very straight forward. Just do what the instructions tells you to do. I stitched the scallops down to make them stay flat. I also split the back piece in two and added a seam there. I thought it would make it easier to adjust later on if I should need to do so.

I'm a quilter as well and well used to stitch down bias binding on scallops. I think these turned out just fine. They are without their button at this stage but I need to shop around for suitable ones. I didn't have the time to wait to finish the skirt though :)

I'm 5'9 and needed to add to the lenght of the skirt. Therefore I had to add a scallop as well I see now that I could have added two with not problem, but since I was a bit uncertain I only added one.

A side view. The fabric I used on the scallops is the same as I used for the blouse in this picture. The skirt itself is made out of a beautiful curtain fabric. If I didn't tell you would not have known would you? :) It is hard to get good picures when you only have a 70-300mm lense on your Canon EOS camera........

Summary:Fabric: Light creme, 100% cotton, heavy with a nice drape effect to it. Tone on tone pattern in the fabric.

Notions: 14 black/dark blue buttons (still to come), narrow black/navy self made bias tape, snaps, hook and eye.

Techniques used:

 

Use these two links for a good explaiation on how to bind scallops:

http://lindafranz.com/section/scallops/38

http://lindafranz.com/index.php?sectionId=39

Hours: Couldn't remember to count :)

Will you make this again? I actually really like this pattern! I think that without the scallops, it'll make the perfect straight skirt for several different gowns Especially now that I've gotten it sized to fit me.
Final thoughts: Not bad, for my first century-old skirt pattern. I don't know when I would ever wear this particular combination of top+skirt, but I feel like I should have a parasol or something.

VPLL Checklist!

1. Pattern Name: #E0200, Scalloped skirt
   
2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Intermediate
   
3. Pattern Rating: I like the scallop detail and it will look fantastic with the trim and buttons,  I give it a 4.5/5.
   
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? I think a beginner would be just fine on this pattern. There aren't many pieces and most of the seams are straight lines. Binding the scallops was trickier, but not impossible if you're willing to take the time to pin and iron. Follow my links as well.
   
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed? The pattern instructions were generally easy to figure out,. I do wish that it was a little more clear on how to finish up the opening, though. Markings for where to put snaps/hooks and eyes would be helpful, but not necessary.
   
6. How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? When I initially measured the pattern, it seemed that it would end up with a final measurement of a 36" waist. If I hadn't been trying to make up the pattern as is, I would have changed up the facing pattern to give it more structure and tapered toward the bottom. That said, I was also wearing this without a corset because it didn't seem entirely necessary. I think it actually would be possible to wear this skirt uncorsetted.
   
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Were they fit or design alterations? I cut the back piece in two to make future alterations more easy.
   
8. Other notes: A decent pattern, and a good starting point for exploring vintage patterns as it was pretty simple. The scallop trim is just enough of a design interest, but not too hard to actually sew. The overall effect is quite nice, and I imagine it would be lovely in a drape-y wool, although this cotton worked out surprisingly well.



My next project..........

....... is a skirt. More precise Ladies Skirt E0200 February 1912.

34 inch waist!

I have some light, heavy fabric for this one. It will go well together with my blouses. Stay tuned for progress :)

Two corsets richer.........

The first time I tried to make a corset I didn't have much knowledge or luck. I used the free pattern from Bridges on the Body and her Sew along

Front

So I went for it one more time. Found some sturdy fabric, reused the busk and bones and bone casings. Reused the lace from the first corset.

Right side

I quickly wanted to make the most out of this pattern so I did some research on flossing. Quite interesting history behind the embellishment of the corset.

Back

I didn't know much about lacing and laces on the corset when I started on this journey and it shows. The lace for this corset is too short and I need to add a few more yards. Yes, yards. You won't believe how many you need :)

Right side/front

This is my second corset, the one I had enough fabric for from the first corset. For this corset I needed to order more bones and a longer busk. I didn't mind, but it sure was hard to wait for the mailman with my post!

Left side/front

 The pattern for this one came from Festive Attyre and it is free (at least for now). You will find some really good information about making this corset from 1911, so go for it!

Back

 Putting the corset on the body form isn't as easy as one would think. And I have to learn how to use the busk the right way when opening and closing it. I'm a newbie here!

On my body

Here is how it looks on my body. It sure isn't easy to lace yourself without any help. I can fully understand why the ladies needed a maid (or a mother/sister/friend) to help them get in to the corset. I could feel a bit of a preasure on the ribs but it didn't bother me very long. I became firmer at the waistline ( as wanted) and I got a taller postiure. Kind of liked that very much. Wonder if I would have said the same thing if I was to use it all day long :) Anyway, this is the perfect undergarments for my 1903-1913 clothes..........

Ladies Blouse 0335 for the 1912 project

This blouse is a waist shirt from the the period when the S-shape was the best ever for a lady.

As part of the project I will conclude this series with the VPLL Checklist

1. Pattern Name: Ladies Blouse E0335
2. Sewer’s Skill Level I think this is advanced beginner’s pattern in difficulty. The most difficult part was to gett he right size for me when grading the pattern.
3.  Pattern Rating (1-5) I liked so much that I made two. 5
4. Skill Level An advanced skill level is needed with regard to pattern adjustments for fit.
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? Generally speaking the instructions were easy to follow. I think less experienced sewers would benefit from more explanation of the  details given.
6. How was the fit/sizing? Pattern size was as described. As noted by other testers the center front pattern piece is a bit wide through the bust area. Since this is from the era of the S-shape, that would be just natural.
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? I had to increase the front pattern piece so it would fit the back piece. If not, the front will not match up with the back. I made extensive alterations extending the length and width in several places but kept the curve through the waist area to accommodate a corseted figure. I also removed one of the pleats on the back. Didn’t do the gathering on the back for the white blouse bu tam doing so on the dark one.
8. Other notes: The artist drawing of the garment as a longer leaner line than the results using the pattern. But if you don’t do anything to the hight of the collar, that will give a very up-right position unless you want to show off those turkey necks J  Also, construction is time intensive; this is definitely not a quick sew garment. But DO TAKE YOUR TIME and make sure you gett he sizing correct.

Cutting.....

Showing off the fabric for the dark blouse.........

The collar with the cream coloured lace........

The pin tucks on the front are being stitched.........

This still needs the bias binding in the buttom..........

And I had to make a light one too :) This is the modern way of wearing it.....

This is the "old" way and correct way.......

Sideways........

To the back............

The bias binding........

The arm closure on the light one. The dark blouse will have spring press studs instead........

I really do hate taking pictures of myself in the bathroom. The light is horrible, I look the same.......

And everything is very yellow:(

Anyway this is the modern way of using this blouse. As you can see it's doable :)

Corsets..

When everything went wrong with my first corset, I didn't want to give up on the pattern. Since by daily budget is somewhat tight, I have to make do of what I can find. Like this child duvet cover. The right kind of fabric and the right amount.

Still some extra cm/inches left over....

Here are the pieces cut out ready to be turned into a corset.

The busk is where it should be.......

A reuse of the lace from corset #1.

The basic velvet ribbon is looking realy good on the lace and I had to choose a thread colour to match for the flossing. Still waiting for some more bonecasings and bones, lacing to finish it all up.

This is my corset #2. It is all done but awaiting the lace. I am waiting for a couple of metal endings for the lace. It will arrive in a weeks time I guess. So next week end both of these corsets will be done! Finally :)

I hate to say this...........

....... but practice DO make perfect!

Just look at these perfect holes. Click on the picture to get a bigger image. After about 65 wasted grommets, I finally managed to set 36 without even one of them splitting or losing it's shape!

Even the busk came together with no problems. I mean..... it lined up perfectly :)

All I have to do now is give the corset it's finishing touches and lacing :) Oh, I got my hand on some fabric ( a childs duvet cover in just the right kind of fabric) that will be suitable for a second corset. The same pattern as the first one I tried to make. This time everything is going to work out just as planned. I'm positive! :)

What I'm talking about........

This is my regency short stay. Looking good :)

Here's a close-up of one of the holes I've done by hand. Easy,and it looks good as well. Right for the era as well. 

Then it's the Edwardian corset:

This is the left-overs from the first corset and the reason why it is.

I tried different ways to get this right AND looking good.........

....... but no matter what I do.....they split AND they lose their round shape. I wish someone could tell me what I'm doing wrong. Let me assure you, this is no fun! And it costs time and money.

The grommets I've used are from the company I bought the corset kit and the grommets from Prym. The only ones I can get hold on here in Norway :(

Undergarments

Yesteryears they used undergarments like we don't do today. Like this chemise.

I'm wearing a bra and that's wrong. Over this chemise I will be using my corset from the edwardian era or the short stay from the regency era.

The seams are perfect and it fits me! :)

Next project..........

As part of my 1912 project I'm making this blouse.

Here's the pattern pieces laid out on the fabric. Ready to be cut. A scary moment :)

I'm working on the tucks here. Actually, I still am. Can't seem to make those few, very thin tucks and the wider ones exactly where they're intended to be! Grrrr..

At least I got the collar right with the lace part and all. I do have all the other pieces all done, just not the front!

I am NOT going to show any pictures of my failure with my post edwardian corset. Everything was going just fine until I started with the eyelets for the lace. I made 26 but only 5 of those came out right. All the other split of were mocked up in other ways.  Boy, was I angry when I hit that last one. I WANTED it to split.....and of course ..... it did....

Sooo....I'm now working on my regency stay insted and a secon edwardian corset. I had to order some more boning for that second corset. Hopefully it's going to turn out just fine, as intended. :)

I never saw this happening when I started out. I thought I knew what I was doing. Sure doesn't feel like that at the moment. Butit will pass and everything will turn out great in the end :)

Hat and corset (almost) done..

Picture taken with my iPhone in the bathroom. Not a very good light in there...

In the living room without the blitz. A bit better shot.......

Any way... it looks less like a wedding cake now than what it used to. Could benefit from a couple of feathers as well I think. But the budget is very thight so that has to wait a bit.

All I need to do with the corset is to make the holes for the laces. This is the front view.......

...... and this is on the wrong side. Not matter how many times I've practiced I still couldn't get that darn thing to stay still while I used the tools. Since I don't want to ruin the corset, I've been in the thinking box for a few days: Continue or go the old fashion way with embroided holes?